![]() ![]() The first guild of modern sommeliers – those guys with the silly silver trays around their neck and who live for blind tastings – was founded in 1907. If we say beer is going to be a game-changer, they trust me.”Īnother challenge is that unlike wine, beer was slow to develop a well-codified, weirdly monastic, centrally administrated service culture. They might not think beer is appropriate in fine dining but they know that we do everything we can to be the best restaurant in the world. “Being the beer director here,” he says, “and having the stature that we do at the restaurant, allows me to gain the trust from our guests. “Quite simply,” he says, “there are some flavors, especially roasted ones, for which beer cannot be beat. Though he says all beer pairings are still “relatively slim”, guests who want beer incorporated are growing ever more. Alongside the restaurant’s wine team, Pene offers beer pairings for chef Daniel Humm’s tasting menus. Matthew Pene is the beer director at Eleven Madison Park, a three-Michelin-star fine-dining restaurant in New York City, where he oversees a list of more than 100 beers. In other words, we are in the golden era of beer – so why not pair it with food? And that, in turn, spawned even more homegrown creators. These are beers with character.Īt the same time, the proliferation of craft breweries coincided with the evolving palate of American drinkers, which increased interest into the world of Belgian beers, with their yeasty funk and old-world traditions. ![]() Today, for example, hop-forward IPAs and sour lambic-styles beers are among the most popular. Lager no longer is the only option: sour beers, bitter beers, far-out stouts, smoked beers, tart beers, and fruit beers have followed. Fuelled first by small brewers like Anchor Steam in San Francisco in 1965 and Sierra Nevada in Chico, California, in 1979, craft breweries have sprung up, offering beers with deep flavors. Unsurprisingly, it has done little to endear the beverage to the best US kitchens.īut the geography of beer has been steadily shifting. The plague of Prohibition exterminated many of the smaller breweries in the 1920s, and when beer reappeared it was a light lager, a featureless watery cipher on to which companies could attach whatever notion of working-class heroes was en vogue. In the US, some of this is, sadly, the fault of beer itself. In many ways, the binge-drinking barbarian stigma has stuck. Not only that, but since beer is made with hardier stuff – malt, hops, yeast and water – it flourished in the colder northern lands, the home of Vandals and Goths. Beer, on the other hand, goes flat, spoils quickly and must be drunk in one sitting. Unlike beer, wine keeps – which means one can sip it and store the rest for later. “They looked down their noses at the beer-drinkers.” It was that ancient august society that popularized beer’s longtime nemesis and carried it in vessels all along the Mediterranean. “The idea of wine correlating with social status is basically a Roman thing,” he explains. The historian Tom Standage, author of The History of the World in Six Glasses, blames the Romans. Only in the last few years has beer made significant inroads into the world of fine dining. But in the last quarter century, with the advent of the gastropub, it has gradually entered into the dining room – mostly in the company of bangers and mash, burgers and fries, or chicken wings. That might not seem too revolutionary, but considering how beer is usually treated it’s practically a putsch.įor most of its 10,000 years, beer has been remanded to swigging on its own. ![]() At Luksus, he acts much as a sommelier might, choosing beers that accentuate and ennoble Burns’s cuisine. ![]() Bjergsø runs Evil Twin Brewing Co, a brewery that produces some of the world’s strangest and most sought-after beers in the world. Photograph: Signe Birckīoth venues are a collaboration between Burns and a Danish brewer, Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø. ![]()
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